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Computer Maintenance
Barry Thompson gives a RISC PC a spring clean
With the major improvements in reliability that have taken place since the dawn
of the personal computer, many people do not expect a Risc PC to go wrong. They
have proved to be hardier in many cases and to be more reliable than a PC based
on the Windows operating system.
Many people may not really take care of their Risc PCs. This may be due to
lack of understanding or being plain uninterested in the working of a Risc PC,
as long as it keeps functioning. This could be asking for trouble. All right,
today’s desktop computers are more reliable than those of 10 years ago - vastly
more so than the mainframes and minicomputers of an earlier age - but this does
not mean they can not go wrong. All electronic equipment can fail and desktop
computers are no exception. Breakdowns can and do happen, with a corresponding
loss in productivity and perhaps even loss of data. What is even more likely
than a hardware failure is a software-related problem - maybe a corruption in
RISC OS, a bug in a driver or some sort of incompatibility between different
packages and even differences in the various versions of RISC OS. Again, this
sort of thing can be very costly in time and productivity.
Arguably, the solution is to buy your Risc PC from a supplier with a good
track record in customer service, think about purchasing a service contract
and renew it when the warranty expires. It makes sense to ensure that your system
is always covered by a service contract, but I would query the suggestion that
this is all you need to do. You may be confident enough, like myself, to be
able to carry out your own maintenance on the electromechanical components,
only relying on people like Reflex Electronics(¹) to sort out more esoteric
electronic faults at motherboard level.
However, those who need to rely on more expert help will find that a service
engineer will not turn up on your doorstep the second you report a problem.
Depending on your contract, you may wait a few hours to a few days and if your
maintenance is on a return to manufacturer basis, you will be subject to even
more delay. If you are a home user, having your Risc PC serviced on site may
involve you taking time off work to be at home when the engineer calls. Finally,
it is not uncommon for the hardware supplier to blame a fault on software and
vice versa. If you insist that the problem is hardware related and demand a
service call and if it then transpires that software was to blame, you might
end up paying for that call-out.
Prevention is better than cure
There is a good argument for knowing enough to be able to sort out some of the
simpler and more common problems yourself. If you are able to do this, it could
save you time and inconvenience and maybe some money into the bargain.
In many instances whether or not you have a problem with your Risc PC could
be the luck of the draw. However, there are things you can do to reduce both
the likelihood of a mishap and the impact of a fault should the worst happen.
Most people will agree that prevention is better than cure. So what could you
do to keep your Risc PC from grinding to a halt and what can you do to ensure
that losses are minimised if you do have a breakdown?
Equipment Required
There are a few items of equipment that it would be useful to have to hand before
commencing the cleaning of the Risc PC. Very few tools to disassemble the main
components in the processor box, a medium flat blade and a medium cross head
screwdriver are required. For cleaning of the various components within the
case it would be useful to have a stiff brush and an antistatic brush for cleaning
the static sensitive components such as the processor cards, motherboard and
backplane. In addition it would be useful to have a vacuum cleaner with a narrow
cleaning nozzle and aerosols of compressed inert gas, antistatic foam screen
cleaner and some solvent, either an aerosol of computer solvent or a small bottle
of Isopropal Alcohol (Isopropanol).
Tools and cleaning materials including antistatic foam cleaner, Isopropanal and computer solvent for degreasing, compressed gas, cotton buds, flat blade and cross head screw drivers, antistatic wrist strap, antistatic brush, narrow stiff brush and tweezers.
Power Supply
On the right hand side of your RiscPC is a power supply, which contains a
fan that draws in air to keep the processor and other components cool. As
we all know, air contains minute dust particles. Eventually, these will accumulate
on the fan blades and end up inside the power supply case and be blown into
the Risc PC's case, covering the motherboard, VRAM (Video Random
Access Memory), DRAM (Dynamic Random Access
Memory), floppy drive and expansion cards. If too much dirt builds
up around the fan it will become partially blocked, with a consequential reduction
in its efficiency. This could result in overheating and damage to some electronic
components. Furthermore, dust can be conductive, so dirt inside the case could
cause short circuits.
Airborne dust certainly is not the problem it was in the early days of computers
and I would not want to overstate the risk. Still, because it is so easy to
do, it makes sense to clean your Risc PC on a regular basis, perhaps on a twelve-month
cycle. In most cases this once a year cleaning is probably adequate. However,
if you have recently had some building work done, the amount of airborne dirt
and dust will be much greater than normal and it would not be a bad thing to
clean your Risc PC straightway. Stick a label on to the inside of the Risc PC’s
case, in a convenient place, write the date on it. Even better, install Chris
Morison’s(²) Organizer software; make a note in Organizer when the cleaning
/ servicing was carried out. Also set an alarm for a future date to remind you
to carry out the procedure again. (You can do the same thing with Acorns !Alarm - ED).
Risc PC with the case cover removed, viewed from the rear.
Risc PC first slice showing the floppy disc drive at the left and the CD-ROM drive at the right
There is very little risk associated with cleaning the inside of the Risc PC,
but there is the possibility of static damage. Avoid touching the internal parts
of the Risc PC with your fingers and regularly touch the case or, better still,
a central heating radiator or bare water pipe to discharge yourself. For the
ideal protection against static damage, wear an antistatic bracelet, which you
can buy from an electronic component supplier.
Where to start
We will start off by looking at how to clean the inside of the Risc PCs base
unit. It probably goes without saying that you should not use water for this
purpose. Instead, we require a dry cleaning process. This means the use of a
clean, dry brush - a half-inch paintbrush is ideal - and a handheld cleaner
nozzle connected to a vacuum cleaner. Investing in an aerosol containing compressed
inert gas would be a big help too. These are sold specifically for blowing dirt
away from delicate equipment and can be obtained from electronic component suppliers
such as Maplin and RS(³). They cost a few pounds.
Risc PC after the removal of the first slice which contains the floppy and CD-ROM drives, viewed from the rear
If you feel confident it would be useful to remove certain components so that
the cleaning process can be more thorough. Switch off the power to the computer
at the mains socket, if the mains cable is left attached it is a good earth
path. Remove it if you feel at all nervous about the plug remaining in the socket.
Start by removing the top cover from the case, rotate the two locking pins
at the rear, remove them by lifting vertically out of the case. The lid can
then be lifted from the rear. Rotate the front locking pins, located internally,
such that they can be removed.
Then remove any podules from the back of the computer, usually held with two
small cross head screws. Remove the backplane into which the podules fit. Gently
ease off the power and data cables from the CD-ROM and floppy disc drive, it
should then be possible to remove the case section which will retain the CD-ROM
and floppy disc drive.
Podule backplane removed from a Risc PC
The next part of the procedure would be to disconnect the power connector
from the motherboard by squeezing the two sides of the plug and then gently
pulling vertically up from the motherboard. Disconnect the power cables to the
floppy and hard disc drive and the CD-ROM drive.
Before removing the power supply unit, gently ease off the power on / off button
by inserting a medium size flat blade screwdriver between the button and the
on / off switch post on the power supply unit. It is usually held onto the computer
base with a single screw at the front. This is probably as much dismantling
that is necessary.
View inside the case, the on / off switch and the power supply securing securing screw can be seen
WARNING - high voltages exist in certain components in a recently
switched off power supply unit, take care not to touch any of these with naked fingers.
Use whatever combination of brushing, blowing and sucking seems
appropriate, concentrating on the components that have been in the direct
line of the fan’s airflow, these components are the VRAM, DRAM, the edge of
the floppy drive, backplane and motherboard, taking great care with the more
delicate-looking parts like the processor cards. I can thoroughly recommend
the aerosol of compressed gas for cleaning out the dust from the power supply.
It is beneficial for the cover of the power supply to be opened, remove two
screws, the cover will then fold back through 90º. The wiring remains
captured in the plastic grommet.
I would recommend carrying out this operation out of doors and also that of
blowing dust off other components. You would be surprised how much dust can
accumulate over just a short period of time. You do not want to upset the other
occupants of the house with a self-created dust storm.
Risc PC power supply unit with cover folded open through 90º, not removed completely, showing the components, fan and wiring
Floppy disk drive
During its life this device has probably had many floppy discs inserted into
it, a consequence of this action is to introduce dust and fluff into the disc
drive mechanism. It is relatively simple to remove the floppy disc drive from
the computer slice, especially as the slice is separated from the base unit
for cleaning the various components in the base unit.
Two screws secure the floppy drive to the case remove these, the drive can
then be slid out of the case. The method of removing the top cover from the
drive depending on the manufacturer of the drive. In most cases the cover is
clipped into place, in others there may be a number of cross headed screws to
be removed before the cover can be removed. Once the cover is separated it is
a relatively simple matter to remove the debris by gently brushing, applying
the vacuum cleaner nozzle and / or gently blowing using compressed gas.
Risc PC floppy disc drive with its top cover removed, viewed from the rear
Mouse
Many people clean their mouse regularly. If you have never done this, it would
be a good idea to do so now. Cleaning is not done to make the mouse look nicer
- similar to the computer base unit, a mouse will work better if its clean.
Problems where the mouse pointer moves erratically can be usually cured using
the following procedure.
The most common type of mouse contains a heavy rubber-coated ball, which rotates
as the mouse is moved. As the ball moves, it drives two spindles at right angles
to each other. There is a third pressure roller diagonally opposite the two
mouse positioning rollers. The Risc PC monitors the rotation of these spindles.
The mouse can easily pick up dirt and grease as its used, forming a deposit
on the ball and spindles so the ball cannot drive the spindles consistently.
Hairs and fibres can also be drawn into the mouse and these can become entwined
around the spindles, once again hindering proper operation.
Turn the mouse upside down and you will see a circular plate that retains the
ball. Rotate this in the direction indicated - you will find you can move it round
about an eighth of a turn before it stops. Holding your hand underneath, turn
the mouse the right way up. The circular retaining plate and the ball will fall
out into your hand. Despite comments about water and PCs, these parts, the ball
and its cover can be washed in warm soapy water; this is probably the best way
to clean them. Make sure they are totally dry before you reassemble your mouse.
Now clean the two spindles and pressure roller inside the mouse. Since there
are electronic components within the mouse you can't use water or another solvent.
Just use a tiny piece of dry cloth or, better still, a cotton swab. Rotate the
spindles as you clean them to ensure they are clean all the way round.
Also check for any fibres or hairs that may have wound round the edges of
the mouse positioning spindles. If there is any sign of contamination, use a
pair of fine-nosed tweezers to remove the offending material. When you are sure
you have removed as much as is practical and the parts you have washed are dry,
reassemble the mouse back together. Turn it upside down, drop in the ball, replace
the circular retaining plate and turn it until it stops. Do not forget, problems
with the mouse could be caused by grease or dirt on the mouse pad - if the pad
is dirty, your clean mouse will soon be in a sorry state again. When you have
cleaned your mouse, do the same with the mouse pad or, if it is really beyond
the pale, get a new one - they are not expensive. I can recommend the 3M Precise
Mousing Surface.
Keyboard
If you are giving your PC a spring clean, you may decide the keyboard could
do with some cleaning too. Only in the most extreme cases will dirt in the keyboard
cause it to fail, so cleaning the keyboard is generally done for aesthetic reasons.
Still, although a dirty keyboard will rarely cause your PC to fail, inexpert
cleaning could.
Risc PC keyboard with 102 keys
Look at a keyboard and you will realise its a very effective dirt trap. All
manner of nasties, ranging from ordinary household dust, through pet hairs and
dandruff to biscuit crumbs, can fall between the keys and become lodged there.
An obvious first line of attack is to hold the keyboard upside down and gently
tap the case. If there is more dirt in there than this has managed to dislodge
and if you want to clean the keycaps fully, then remove the caps.
Before you start, make sure you know which keycap goes where. Unless you have
another keyboard to hand, or it is illustrated in the handbook, draw a diagram,
take a digital photograph, or even place the keyboard on your scanner or photocopier
and record the key positions in this way. Next, carefully remove the keycaps.
A small screwdriver works well and is unlikely to cause any damage.
Insert the blade of the screwdriver under a keycap and lift it up. I suggest
you only remove the ordinary sized keys. The space bar and the larger keys like
Return and Enter often have wire mechanisms underneath that are hard to fit
back into place. Having removed the keycaps, it is easier to remove the debris
from the keyboard using a combination of handheld vacuum cleaner, brush and
/ or compressed-gas aerosol. You can also wash the keycaps, as long as you dry
them fully.
Although the buildup of grime on the keycaps can be severe, stick with warm
soapy water and a sponge. Do not be tempted to use an organic solvent or any
cleaning agent stronger than soap and do not use a scourer. Organic solvents
could dissolve the plastic of the keycaps and abrasive cleaning agents or scourers
could remove the legends or scratch the keys, making them more susceptible to
the accumulation of dirt in the future. Replacing the keycaps - once dry - involves
nothing more complicated than pushing them down on to the appropriate switch
mechanisms.
Monitor
Finally, a word on cleaning your monitor. A dirty monitor will not affect the
performance of a computer but because, as with the keyboard, if you do not know
what you are doing you could do some damage. Monitors are dust traps, but in
a different way from keyboards. As electrons are fired at the front of the CRT
to build up the picture, the front surface of the screen becomes charged with
static electricity. This, in turn, causes opposite charged dirt to be attracted
to the screen. Soon, the buildup of dirt causes the image to be dimmer than
it should be. The easiest way to clean the screen is simply to use a duster.
However, this is not always as effective as you might expect. The action of
rubbing the duster on the glass can cause further static buildup. A better solution
is to use the cleaning pads made specifically for this purpose. These have an
antistatic agent, which, in addition to cleaning the screen, will hinder the
further buildup of dirt. RS(³) anti static screen cleaner is recommended
(part number 197-5472). Under no circumstances should you use any other solvent
or cleaning agent, as these could damage the anti-glare coating that is deposited
on to the surface of many screens. To clean the monitor’s case, do not be tempted
to use anything other than a dry duster.
Also, do be careful with cups of tea and coffee and especially soft drinks
containing sugar. Computers and water do not mix - so do not balance your mug
on top of the Risc PC case or monitor. I would not expect you to abstain from
drinking when you are seated at the Risc PC, but remember that a keyboard full
of coffee is a dead keyboard, so do take extra care.
Appendix
Reflex Electronics |
Telephone: 01438 311 299 |
http://www.reflexelectronics.co.uk/ |
Chris Morison - Oganizer |
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http://www.organizer.ukgateway.net/ |
RS Components |
Dust Remover / Screen Cleaner |
http://rswww.com/ |
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Barry Thompson
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